Zombie

Member Since 01 Jan 2004
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 11:56 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Let's Paint!

22 August 2019 - 01:43 AM

View PostThorondor, on 21 August 2019 - 11:36 AM, said:

Yep, there's no worrying where the paint may land when Zombie decides to freehand! Posted Image

I splattered a little bit down the wall underneath a couple of the windows which I noticed today. But I gotta paint it anyway so... Freehanding can be really challenging especially with a so-so brush. A pro tip would be to bite the bullet and purchase a decent brush because that makes cutting in around the frame so much easier.

View PostThorondor, on 21 August 2019 - 11:36 AM, said:

Those windows seem to have some tough to reach spots on the inside, namely on corners, hinges and the midpoint connections, but you've managed alright by the looks of it.

Yeah, lots of nooks and crannies to poke around in. I actually considered painting parts from the inside, but in the end it wasn't terrible just annoying to paint from the outside. ;)

View PostThorondor, on 21 August 2019 - 11:36 AM, said:

Otherwise, pout as one may at the trouble by the downspout, things are well underway and you'll soon be out and about painting that wall anyway! Posted Image

True!

I managed to do a little more work on the wall today in between breaks on a big store emergency project. First I put a coat of that mistinted paint on the primed mortar joints. Turned out the color was closer to a gray-ish army green than the caramel color of the wall. Not an issue really, it just means I might have to put on a couple coats (knowing me, I'll probably brush on a coat of the appropriate wall color on the dark spots, then get out the roller and do the whole wall in one swoop). The tuck pointing was also finished. To top it all off, I emptied an entire full tube of caulk into the wall (a lot of the mortar joints were just too deep to paint over but too shallow to tuck point - very much like the wall I did last year). There was a big crack between the wall and the fascia board so I filled that in too which took quite a bit of caulk. Unfortunately no pics of all this because I forgot my camera at home today, I'll try to get some pics of it tomorrow.

Might not have as much time as I wanted to paint this year as I hoped - got another emergency project coming up and another big project after that. Still planning to paint the bottoms of the smaller boards for the greenhouse though and get the doors and windows squared away. Have to see how fast I can complete the big project maybe I'll have some time after that. ;)

- Zombie

In Topic: Let's Paint!

21 August 2019 - 04:18 AM

View PostThorondor, on 11 August 2019 - 02:58 PM, said:

Service door: not bad he says? That red is now far from dead! Though I can imagine opening that door only to find the contrasting tones, outside and in, rather odd. Posted Image

True, though that's the color scheme on the outside so it's just easier to follow that indoors too. Besides, in case of fire I'd much rather have the door a nice bright red to make it easier to spot. Posted Image

Since I have the door painted properly it would be stupid not to do the windows too, right? I actually found an old can of red from 2012 marked "For Windows", but it was pretty thinned out to work as a base coat. I ended up mixing that with the remainder of the door paint and then it was good to go. So here's the before picture (with screens inserted):

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The windows are pretty washed out but thankfully there's not too much rust. First thing is to get the screens out, then clean out the track they go in which collects all sorts of crap like dust, dirt, dead insects etc. I usually tape off the window glass to make cleanup easier, but in this case I have a somewhat decent brush so I decided to just freehand it. I only made a couple mistakes which were easily fixed with a rag with a little paint thinner on it (using an oil paint btw). Here's the after pic, with screens removed:

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There's a spot on the lower left of the frame which I missed when this pic was taken but it was touched up soon after (there's 4 windows in total). I painted all the screen frames and I think I have 2 coats on them right now. The only thing left to do is put another coat on all the windows, screen frames and doors (2 of these) so they all match. Got another quart from the paint store which should be enough for a final coat on everything plus a little extra for touch-ups.

Today I primed all those raw mortar joints which I tuck pointed a while back. Everything looked dry and cured and the mortar didn't crumble when I ran a rough stone over the joints to remove the high spots. Unfortunately I found another area near the downspout where the mortar was crumbling underneath the paint so out came the hammer and flat blade screwdriver to dig them out.

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I'll have to do a little more tuck pointing then. Not a big issue, the biggest problem is waiting for the joints to cure as I want to paint it already. :P Luckily when I was at the paint store I was able to pick up a gallon of mis-tinted paint for $3 which is the same sheen and type as I normally use, plus it was pretty close to the color. I rarely if ever see mis-tints for flat exterior paint so this was a great find. I'll use this as a base coat, then go over that with the final color and Bob's your auntie. Posted Image

- Zombie

In Topic: Let's Paint!

11 August 2019 - 03:02 AM

View PostThorondor, on 07 August 2019 - 08:39 AM, said:

It's going to be dicey but you'll have to either leave it be, tucked in, comfortable and umoving in its slow decay, or take your chances and deal with the aftermath, whatever it is. The pitting may not be pretty but doesn't scare.

For a moment there it almost sounded like dental care. So, the question is, are you up for an extraction - will you dare? Posted Image

I think I'm going to chicken out on the dental extractions Mr T. Thing is, I'll only make it worse by removing. The plate is solid right now even with two screws holding it in place so I'd be stupid to muck with it. (If it aint broke, I'll "fix" it till it is syndrome). Posted Image  I think that by priming everything, caulking in the screw heads and then applying polyurethane it should last for at least another 10 years assuming you keep up with the maintenance (that's the key really).

So a slight change of gears for a little bit. Earlier in the year I noticed that some of the mortar joints of the smaller garage were starting to decay for some reason. The section I'm referring to is the part next to the wood paneling I painted brown last year. Fall will be here before I know it so I need to fix those joints and give the new mortar time to cure properly before I can prime and paint it. Here's the before pics (well, after knocking out the loose mortar and wire brushing the joints to remove the loose dust).

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Pretty bad. I wondered why only part of the joints were bad, so I followed the damage up til I hit the gutter. Low and behold, one of the gutter spikes was loose and the metal around it was all chowdered up. This allowed water to get behind the gutter and run down the wall. Ah ha! At least I know what the problem is and how to fix it (silicone caulk). The damage has been done though. Picked up a new bag of mortar mix from the hardware store and tuck pointed the joints somewhat properly.

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What I mean by "somewhat properly" is that in order to do a perfect job I'd need to remove a lot more old mortar with specialized tools (which I don't have) whereas I just used a screwdriver and a hammer. Also my mortar mixing skills are apparently a little rusty as I kept making the mix too dry so I had to add more water which is why some of the joints look almost black. Everything dried nice and light gray so it must be good. I'll see about getting a pic of that before the primer goes up.

Today was a gorgeous day so I wasn't about to squander it away by working on other projects. Time to paint that door! In the interest of comparison, I'm including a before picture so you can see what the difference is.

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Not bad at all! The only issue I noticed is that there are some scratches visible yet on the outside (probably shouldn't have used 50 grit for the initial sanding step, you live you learn). But hey, I'm going to paint another door and figured I can put on another coat at that time. The color looks pretty orange in the pictures but I think that is just caused from the sun being so bright. The color is more of a deep brownish-orange/red.

Since I had the roller out, might as well recoat the inside of the door too:

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This is closer to it's true color though it's still a little bit dark because I had the doors closed and lights off (to save energy) in the pic. You'll also notice that the finish on the inside is different from the outside. That's because the base coat on the outside was applied with a brush while on the inside it was all with a roller. That's for the best in this situation as those brush marks will hide the scratches better than a shiny glossy mirror-like finish. Posted Image

- Zombie

In Topic: Let's Paint!

07 August 2019 - 04:06 AM

Ok, I got some pics of the screws and sill plate. The first one is the middle screw (or what's left of it anyway).

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There's a little meat left on the bone so it might be possible to back out the screw with an extractor, but it's so corroded and rusty I'm worried it will not free itself from where it enters the concrete under the plate. I'm assuming there's an anchor under the plate in the concrete where the screw goes into... if it's a metal anchor, I'll bet the screw doesn't back out and just snaps because of the rust. And in that case it isn't going to be "just remove the bad screw and replace it with a stainless steel screw" because the anchor will have the remnants of the old screw in it. So I'd have to completely remove the sill plate in order to get at what's left of the screw. Posted Image

You can see how pitted the sill plate still is. I could sand it for another couple hours and maybe get it somewhat smooth, but the grooves would be difficult to get to the same finish. At least the plate is rough so I probably will not need a self-etching primer on it. Posted Image See? There's always a bright side!

Here's a pic of one of the other screws (the left one if you are looking from the outside, but it's the right one in this pic because I'm on the inside).

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My favorite #3 phillips screwdriver is in the slots and it's still a little loose. Granted, the heads on those screws are a little chowdered as well (due mainly to rust but also a little because of me trying to get them out). However, even if the screw was brand new it looks like it would still be a little big for a #3 driver which is why I believe it's a #4. Posted Image

The sill plate doesn't look too bad here. At least it's shiny. But the pitting is still pretty horrible. Posted Image

- Zombie

In Topic: Let's Paint!

06 August 2019 - 02:14 AM

View PostThorondor, on 04 August 2019 - 07:11 PM, said:

That sill plate handful sounds familiar, Zombie. Posted Image

Both the part imagining one can get away with using an electric tool only to end up doing it the hard way by hand, and the bit regarding screws losing their head grooves and ending up dug in as is.

This video on YouTube provides some possible solutions to the screw predicament (including the impact driver one).

I highly doubt any of those solutions would work in my specific case. Sure, for #2 screws it's all fine and dandy because you'll have a multitude of options to pick from and there's a darn good chance of getting it loose regardless which method you pick. The screws affixing the sill plate to the concrete are not #2, they are probably a #4 (I have a very nice #3 phillips screwdriver and that is a little bit small). And the head of the center screw is really, really chowdered up so I don't even know if a #4 would have enough material to grab hold of anymore. I'll try to get some pics of it. Posted Image

I do like that at the end of the video the guy says there's basically no way to remove a 4" #2 screw from wood. You're kidding, right? My method will wreck the wood a little, but you can always fix wood. My favorite way is to dig down into the wood underneath the head to make a little room, then use a locking pliers (aka Vise Grip) to latch on the screw and turn. That works quite often. After that, you can glue a plug of wood into the hole you made. Easy peasy! ;)

View PostThorondor, on 04 August 2019 - 07:11 PM, said:

Also, my congrats on your planting project, as the outcome already makes a world of difference. Once the plants settle in and start growing and blooming it will make what once was a space of some neglect into a bright spot people will be happy to walk by once again.

I hope so. I doubt anything will bloom this year yet (besides the white coneflowers) so maybe next year. Posted Image

- Zombie